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Mine is pretty simple. I have front suspension replacement (struts and anti-roll bushings) for my Acadia to do. Keep making plans with the friend with the tools and location to do it, we both have shit keep coming up keeping it from happening. At least it’s only been a couple months AND it makes sense over the holidays…and hell it’s been cold. But dammit, I want my KYB’s! LOL Of course the rear shocks seem to be on permanent backorder so who knows when I’ll actually receive those…
Ugh, started replacing the fender flares on my Jeep TJ on Sunday. Three hours later and I had removed 2.5 fenders. Half of the nutserts that hold them on are spinning, so it’s starting to look like I’m going to have to remove the wheels and fender well liners and I just don’t even want to think about that right now.
My next fix is the z28s AC. I think it has a slow leak in the line as the compressor is new. Does this make sense? The plan is to smoke test it and see if there is a leak. Replace then recharge.
Not doing the Walmart overpressure solution.
This will be a spring job as it is currently sitting the garage in winter storage mode.
Another thing I want to add is a tire pressure monitoring beyond the flat tire light on the dash. Has anyone used a RV TPMS to this, for example the Lippert? I want to do as little wiring as possible Are there similar systems for older vehicles that don’t have this built in?
I’m accumulating parts for a total brake redo on the Saab 9-3. I have new rotors, pads, and steel lines (that I ordered from the UK when the pound was down and saved a ton of money on!) in the garage now. I need to order more some more hardware before I get started on that. I’ll probably paint the calipers too because why not, everything’s already going to be pulled out.
I’m also not happy with the aftermarket stereo in my Silverado, so I’d like to replace it, but not so unhappy that I want to spend another $300+ on a better unit.
Nothing too exiting on my end, probably going to do my first ever DIY oil change on my Sonic this weekend. I’ve really enjoyed working on it so far, did the spark plugs and coils a few months ago and the car still ran fine after I put it back together, so I’m marking that as my first auto repair W.
How do you like your Sonic? I’m always (pleasantly) surprised they’re still making them (they are, right?) and I definitely like that super sport motorcycle-style dashboard.
I really enjoy mine, It’s the RS trim with the 1.4 Ecotec and a 6-speed. Not the world’s fastest car by any stretch of the imagination, but it handles great and feels really solid for a car of it’s size, much better than the Honda Fit I also strongly considered. GM unfortunately killed it off in 2020 IIRC, but they still make the smaller Spark which you are probably thinking of.
I *am* thinking the Spark…do’h! Soooo GM though, to kill the bigger one but leave the tiny one. Ford canned the Fiesta here first, then the Focus later on, which seems a smarter choice.
I considered an Aveo5 back when, but it just kinda left me feeling meh. I was a little upset when the Sonic later came out, as it seemed much more what I’d been seeking, and the RS is quite cool. I ended up with a Focus sedan, which I love, but frequently wish it were a hatchback.
My ‘69 VW bus has developed an annoying habit of honking when I turn the steering wheel. There’s an extremely easy way to detach the horn, so I did that, but driving without a horn isn’t great. (Especially when driving a vehicle where my femurs are the crumple zone.) I’ve taken it to a local mechanic twice to get it fixed (still beeps on turns) and looked at some online advice on how to remedy this short. I have the time and desire to make the fix, but not the courage yet. If anyone has remedied this, I’d be grateful for your insight/advice.
I’m in Chicago, so starting next week the bus will likely not be venturing out too much until salt season is over, so I am in no rush.
In a modern car I’d say you need to get a new clockspring, pull the steering wheel with a steering-wheel puller borrowed from the local auto parts store, and replace said clockspring. In a 1969 Microbus… I’d actually be really interested to know what that procedure looks like.
I am not super sure about VW specifics but you likely have a short in the steering column or a filthy contact ring.
You’re going to have to pull the wheel which is not a very complex task on that.
There is a plastic plate/bushing at the bottom of the column that isolates it from the chassis- when that plate goes after all these years, you have an intermittent ground which sounds the horn. It could also be up in the button area, but either is a pretty quick fix.
After that bottom plate gave out on my ’74 (your ’69 is likely similar but not the same), i had to umplug the fuse because the horn was constant. Ordered the new piece and swapped it in about an hour. Easy. You will have to take off the bottom cover to get to it.
Particulars:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8014473
I won’t be doing the wrenching, but tomorrow I’m replacing my winter tires that have less than 20000km on them.
The reason? Got a new job that has a 100km round trip commute after having a 12km one for years before that.
My current winters are noisy AF on dry roads. I measured 82db at my ears!
No wonder my ears have been ringing lately.
My solution for commuting in the Miata is to pop in my noise-cancelling AirPods as soon as I get on the highway. Sure it’s technically illegal, but the reality of the situation is that it’s so fucking loud in there (top up or down, doesn’t matter) that I’m not going to hear anything outside the car anyway. My plan in the extremely unlikely event that I get pulled over is to claim that I’m just using them for hands-free calling, since we have laws around here about touching your phone while driving.
Finally in!
Long post –
I’ve been pestering David with pics of my wrecked Jeep LJ restoration project. Here’s the story:
I have a buddy with a collision shop and he kept it for almost a year. While it was at his shop I had a 2.5″ lift kit installed to fix the wrecked driver side suspension. Somebody on Facebook sold me 5 brand new stock wheels and tires from their upgraded JK for $250 and demanded I keep the jeep Solar Yellow.
My buddy’s shop does not have a lift. This proved to be important later in two cases.
After putting the lift kit in, we discovered the transfer case had broken “in half”. Didn’t see it since it’s under the jeep and we didn’t have a lift. Luckily, it’s a manual non-Rubicon jeep, so a used T-case was cheap.
Then we noticed the engine mount on the driver side had ripped off the block, taking three block bosses with it. There were heavy-duty replacement mounts on the market that use 4 unused block bosses to fasten it to the block, and I scored a pair.
Then we realized that everything in front of the actual engine needed replacing. Radiator, fan, water pump, hoses, etc. This actually made the motor mount replacement easier, as did having the grill and fenders off the jeep.
Got the body work and paint done, and…turns out the axle housing in front that we thought was fine was bent after all. We took it to a local 4-wheel shop and they straightened it out and fixed up the front driveshaft. Put in new bearings, etc. Cost $1000, but worth it.
So after that, it was ready for me to drive it home – 1 hr on the freeway at 75mph. I noticed a clicking noise from underneath once I got it in the driveway, so I crawled under and shook both driveshafts and they seemed solid so I just ignored it.
Spent 2 weeks working on wiring that the previous owner had turned into a nightmare. I pulled out about a half mile of wires that went to no-longer-present fog lights, light bars, security systems (on a jeep?), etc. and removed soooo many wire taps. I replaced the stereo, discovered I didn’t have a factory subwoofer after all, discovered the ODBII port was destroyed, replaced the headlight switch stem and in the process had to replace that wire connector because it disintegrated, and put in new tail lights.
Then I saw the rear frame member was broken in half and had been poorly welded. I have no idea how we did all this body work and stuff and never saw this. It’s on my to-do list now. I’ve got a new frame member to put in but I can’t weld so I’ve got to take it somewhere to get it done.
Lastly – I drove it a few miles and BANG the rear driveshaft falls out. The u-joint straps were loose. Another thing I can’t believe we never saw, but since it was never up on a lift, it was overlooked. Again, luckily, I just took it to a driveline shop and had it rebuilt for $120 and popped it back where it belonged.
That’s where I stand today.
Left on the list –
Heat shield and carpet.
O2 sensor
Fog lights
Backup camera
ODBII port replacement
Rear framemember
BTW – Color Bond for interior vinyl and plastic surfaces is a miracle product.
God damn, what a saga! I wish you luck getting it all sorted, sounds like you’re (hopefully?) on the home stretch!
Good lord!
Good thing every dollar you throw into that thing won’t be lost, as LJs are hot hot hot!
Browndog engine mounts, I take it? Had your motor mount bolts loosened, you reckon?
From what I gather, off-roaders break their motor mounts all the time and that’s why Browndog exists. Mine was a result of the wreck that totalled the jeep. It tore off the bosses from the block. I was concerned that I’d have to replace the motor before I found out Browndog’s mounts use all 7 bosses.
I think I have $16K in this thing now, and that’s about what they sell for if they are perfect with a rebuilt title, so I’ve broke even, basically.
The lesson I learned is if you get an auction LJ, to get one with a hard top, because that sucker is worth $2K on the open market and you can use that cash to fix the rest of the jeep. Another good lesson is to get a wrecked TJ of the same year as a parts car.
The only project I have in the queue is fairly simple. I need to pull the bed off my pickup and change the fuel pump. But that is probably going to wait until spring. It’s still running fine, just not always reading the right fuel level.
I am considering a slight lift on my Niro, and that is even more of a spring project, and probably a bad idea. But would I really be an Autopian member without the occasional poor automotive choice?
Gods. What projects do I not have backed up at this point?
It’s too cold to wrench without a heated garage, and then some. And the Saab needs an alternator regulator (and some diag.)
I also need to pull the front end off the Jeep (no, seriously, think service position) to diagnose what is pouring fluid right now. It’s probably the front diff. But might be the hydraulic fan circuit. Kill me now.
The Corolla, irredeemable shitbox that it is, needs to go to the dealer where I will make angry ‘hire an actual drivability tech’ noises at them and then have to once again demonstrate the persistent rattle (YOUR MISSING 10MM IS IN MY DASHBOARD) and the CVT now deciding it will upshift when it damn well feels like it, if it feels like it, and it’s pretty unmotivated today. This is a ’21 Corolla, by the by. With 8000 miles.
And the garage. Sigh. I just… I don’t even know where to begin. Both in speaking and with regards to it. It’s pretty much been a no-go zone since my dad died last month. But it has to be dealt with, so I guess this weekend I’m going to try starting. When I say “I have a machine shop on hand,” I don’t just mean my job shop.
I mean there is literally a 5-axis mill, variable speed lathe, and high speed drill press in the garage. Plus 3 full toolboxes, not counting mine. Every waterblock, every manifold, every heatsink, that all got prototyped out there. Some of it will stay, but a lot of it has to go.
My condolences on your father’s death.
My mom once complained of a clunking sound seemingly coming from the engine of her Mustang after she’d brought it back from an oil change at the dealer. I opened the hood, looked around, and eventually found…an 1/2 drive socket wrench. A nice one (Snap On I think) at that.
Gave it to her, told her to run it back as soon as she could as I know tools are mechanics’ property. She later told me how happy he was to get it back, and I figure that brought her some good will for the future.
Thanks.
I wish any of our customers had been that thoughtful. We had a tech accidentally leave an entire Tech2 in a customer car.
The writers had to call around to find which one had it.
Sorry to hear about your dad, man. That really sucks.
Thanks. “That really sucks” is… a very accurate summary of… pretty much my entire life.
Well, let’s see what the hive mind can do…
I am in the midst of drawing up plans for a new frame for my Jeep and I need dimensions and the internet is not being as helpful as I would like because I am OLD and bad at Google…
Does anyone perchance have a cad file for a late CJ5, CJ7 or YJ frame?
Or, does anyone have dimensions for or can you measure:
CJ7 spring length?
YJ spring length?
Distance between rear spring mount eyes in the frame CJ or YJ?
Height offset between the front and rear spring mount eyes for the rear spring on a CJ or YJ?
Any good frame build threads or the like y’all have seen?
Hell yeah, I love this!
Currently, I’m still trying to dial in the Sigma 6 short shifter on my new-to-me Alltrack. (I had a short day today because a co-owner died unexpectedly, it really sucks and there’s a Gofundme if anybody wants to know about it, but I still took the opportunity to fuck around with my car.) It shifts perfectly in the driveway, but when I’m actually driving it and I pull down-and-left for 2nd gear, it hits some kind of notch. It’s fine if I’m careful not to pull all the way to the left, but I feel like I shouldn’t have to finesse the 1-2 shift like that. I think I know what I need to do, but the adjustment is a bit finicky because it’s really a two-handed job but there’s only enough space in there for one hand. At least accessing the mechanism is just a matter of pulling the airbox, which is a tool-less operation other than a pair of vise grips for a spring clamp.
I also put snow tires on the wagon today. In classic fashion, I did this just after the first real snow of the winter. I see why people complain about wheel bolts on German cars now but you know… it’s not that bad? You just grab the wheel by one of its spokes, put a 6″ extension on the socket you’re using, stick a wheel bolt in the socket, and then hold the wheel up to the hub while you start the first bolt. After that, it’s just as easy as studs. The bolts on the Alltrack look like shit though (surface rust, no big deal but ugly) and I may have to do something about that eventually.
Speaking of, I’m loving the finest-cheapest 12V butterfly impact wrench that I got free with a (much higher end) Milwaukee tool that I bought a while back. It’s pretty weak (35 ft-lbs max) and not even brushless, but that weakness is kind of an advantage in some situations. For example, I know it doesn’t have enough nut to strip out the hole for a wheel bolt (without making a big fuss about it, anyway) so I feel comfortable using it to start the bolt instead of doing it by hand. I use it to speed up my work by snugging up fasteners which I then finish off by hand, or spinning out fasteners which I started with a breaker bar. It’s a good little tool despite being at the very bottom of Milwaukee’s hierarchy of impact wrenches.
First, my condolences; I wish you and your friend’s family and friends only the best, especially now during this holiday season.
When you say “the wagon,” are you referring to the Alltrack, or is there another?
Yeah, the Alltrack is the wagon to which I refer. I had an ’03 Outback before that, but it became too troublesome to be worth keeping so I sold it on.
Thanks for your kind words. He didn’t die on the job or anything (totally possible in my line) but it’s still tragic. He leaves behind a young son, a fiancee, and his dad. He was the lead roofer on his crew while his dad was the lead electrician. They lived across the street from each other and would commute back and forth together every day. No parent should have to bury their child.
Sorry about your colleague’s death. I lost one of my guys (non-work situation, but like with you, it’s a possibility on the job) about a month ago, and it’s still just a complete shock to the team.
But I didn’t realize wheel bolts were still common, esp on VWs! I’ve worked on some 2000s era ones, and they all had lugs… The things one learns here!
Thanks. It sure sucks, doesn’t it? It’s a little close to home for me because we were hired the very same week four years ago, we have the same position in the company, and we’re about the same age. Some of the folks at my branch had worked with him for ten years or more at other companies and are pretty torn up, to say nothing of his dad. It’s gonna be weird for a long time.
I have a pretty decent clunk shifting into reverse and then drive, pretty sure it’s my U joints. If I load it up in reverse or forward it’ll clunk (higher pitched, not a noticeable shudder or anything) and it won’t clunk again until I change directions and give it any amount of gas. Just once. I’ve greased the u joints a few times and it barely makes a difference. Decided to order a new driveshaft instead because it was ~$100 and I didn’t want to deal with replacing u joints, having it be unbalanced etc. The driveshaft I received was incorrect, it was a 2wd driveshaft and I have a 4wd. End of story I got a free 2wd driveshaft. Is it worth my time to cut down the 2wd and have a shop balance it or is biting the bullet and replacing u joints on my old one a better move. The old driveshaft is a little crusty (Midwest car) but overall no dents or dings. Thanks. 2006 sequoia btw
No, it is not worth cutting it down…
Before spending a bunch of money on stuff why not crawl under there and look if the u-joints are actually bad?
Uh, if you’ve got clunks going between directions then the issue is probably not your driveshaft.
It’s your differentials or transfer case. If it’s full time 4WD, I’d be expecting a stretched chain as soon as I pop the transfer case.
My ’04 Cayenne S (~190k miles) is suddenly running something awful.
The engine revs and falls at idle, between 500-1500rpm, and it’s got no power, and sometimes shows misfires on up to 6 cylinders, plus a random PSM light. Then it doesn’t. I swear it was running perfect the day before.
I’ve swapped a bank of spark plugs. Though they were old, they were a nice toasty brown so I don’t think they were fouled or missing.
I’ve swapped around coil packs to see if it changes which cylinders don’t go, but it doesn’t seem like a bunch of them would fail in the same day. Didn’t seem to help.
The mass air flow sensor seems ok, registers voltage in range.
The fuel filters are really hard to get at and of unknown vintage, but I don’t think it was a bad tank of gas.
Porsche mechanics ain’t cheap, but I am. Advice for troubleshooting? Electrical gremlins?
I’d be tempted to start with a compression test.
It’s too late for advice; that’s a first gen Cayenne with miles.
First and only advice that matters on those? Under no circumstances ever buy one. The reasons it’s showing misfire on 6 cylinders is because the block is fucked. These engines had Lokasil liners, and were the absolute most notorious of them all. It is a guaranteed failure at any point between 75k and 200k miles. It’s not lifter noise you’ve been hearing, it’s not tappet noise, and it’s not coil noise.
It’s cylinder wall lining failure and ring noise. Unless you can prove that engine has been replaced? You got 190k out of it, which is a good 90k more than most people did. Thirty seconds with a borescope and you’ll know. But I already know. Every one of these fails the same way. It’s a known engineering defect.
That’s why they’re dirt cheap. And if you’re up to 6 cylinders misfiring? LN Engineering (which’ll cost you at least $8k) can’t help. They only do Nickies Lite (replating) for 4.5’s. You need sleeving if you’re lucky, whole new block due to out of round bores more likely. And you’re talking easily $10k+ on a ‘maybe’ rebuild.
Turned out it was just a throttle body going bad. Replaced that and now it’s running fantastic again.
Lokasil lining failure on 4.5s is typically precluded by piston slap. If it hasn’t been knocking or smoking and a look with the borescope comes back all good, it’s time to pull codes and check parameters. Fuel pressure might be a good place to start as idle surge and misfires can occur when either one of the fuel pumps starts to die, although it’s a bit tricky to diagnose such an issue without a list of present fault codes. These cars can be fiddly, but don’t let the horror stories get to you.
Thomas, your first sentence would make for a good pickup line I think.
But I’m not exactly an expert on those things.
Sans trans or no?
I’m doing a motor transplant between ’97 Ranger chassis, 2.3L with auto. I just got finished going through the truck I had when my son wrecked it. It was cheaper to buy a new-to-me, better roller with a blown head gasket than it was to pay the frame shop to straighten the one I had.
I’ve got a wooden frame with a chain hoist to get the motor in/out and I’m working outside on packed red clay/gravel. I’ve got the working motor cut loose, rad out and accessories off. Do I leave the trans on to pull the motor and transplant the whole unit or do I drop the trans out the bottom and motor out the top? Part of me thinks that pulling the pair as a unit while on I’m not able to move things around easily due to being outside on gravel will be a chore I might not be able to pull of. The other part of me thinks, after some youtubage, that getting the two separated and then back together again is more trouble than it is worth. It’s been raining for three weeks straight so I haven’t had a chance to get back to it and I’ve been stewing this not knowing which way to go to spare myself the most grief.
How’s bell housing bolt access?
How mobile is your lift frame?
If you are going to pull it all as a unit you are going to have to either pull the assembly forward or roll the truck back; are those both feasible with your set up?
I am assuming it is 2wd?
I have a question.
I drive a 2008 Pontiac G6 GT convertible. I bought it a few years ago, and when I got it, it had an old Clarion touchscreen head unit with a hard drive navigation system. It’s garbage.
I lived with it, but recently, it started acting up. It would switch from function to function on its own. I smacked it out of frustration and cracked the screen. Now its stuck on the navigation screen.
Yeah, that’s on me.
So I need a new head unit. Ideally, I’d like to get a factory unit. That would restore things like the steering wheel controls and, most importantly, the driver information center. Y’know, the oil life monitor, tire pressure readings, etc.
Currently, these are on a tiny, aftermarket screen on the side of the console, basically in the driver’s footwell. If I want to look at it, I have to stop, get out, and then lay in the footwell.
This is stupid.
I have checked online, and factory head units are available. Apparently in need to send in the VIN for them to be rendered compatible with the vehicle security features.
Here’s the snag. There were 3 audio systems available. Single disc, 6 disc changer, and 6 disc Monsoon system. I can tell from the steering wheel control mine originally came with either the 6 disc ot the Monsoon system. From what I’ve researched, they are not interchangeable.
I’m hoping I don’t have the Monsoon system, but does anyone here know how to tell? I read on Crutchfield.com that all G6 GT convertibles have the Monsoon system. However, a guy I work with has a nearly identical car, and his has the standard 6 disc system.
Thanks for any help you can give!
Can you send that VIN into GM and have them tell you what the factory equipment was?
Look on the inside of the glovebox lid. There should be a sticker with a gazillion three letter codes.
Google 2008 Pontiac GT RPO codes. You should luck out.
Alternately, a factory service manual will have what all the codes are for.
Crutchfield’s information is extremely extremely wrong often. (Like, EXTREMELY wrong.)
You absolutely can tie in the steering wheel controls on the G6 with anything modern. There’s kits for that. Just the generic GM kit for those.
If you have SWC at all then you have either the 6 disc or the Monsoon. Find your RPO sticker (trunk on G6 I think,) looking for the U codes. I can tell you which system from those. FSM does NOT contain the RPO index; it only calls out RPOs where required. The Monsoon and 6CD use identical harnesses, so you can’t ID by that. You have to find the Monsoon amp which is in the trunk. And yes, if you want to convert to factory Monsoon, you have to rip the entire interior out, because you have to swap the entire interior harness.
I agree. I put a new radio in my DTS. Tied into the controls, offered OBCII data, Carplay/Andriod audio, replaced a 12 volt with a USB input/charger, and looks factory.
Sure I paid more for it, but it is wired correctly and people think it is factory.
Well, Occam says that if your car had a Monsoon head unit, it probably wouldn’t have been swapped out for an after-market set up.
You might think Occam would say that, but, uh. Yeah. The very late Monsoon systems were… problematic. These got the internal 6 disc changer version, which was very good at jamming and breaking. Cost to repair was more than a good aftermarket unit. They also had ‘TheftLock,’ so a dead battery could basically brick your radio. Again, cost to repair more than a decent replacement.
My advice to anyone who wants to go back to one of these is simply do not use the CD at all, ever. It will break. Hell, when burning CDs became widely accessible, jammed and broken CD players shot through the roof. And unlike cassette mechanisms, it’s not just a matter of a few belts and maybe a plastic gear.
I need a recommendation for penetrating lubricants, I know there’s plenty of guides out there, but I assume most of them are stealth marketing (seems to be no consistency, weird tests, and one brand is usually hyped), and my use case is a bit unique.
Application: .250″ bolt, made from Inconel 718, threaded into a steel insert. The bolt does have anti-seize on the threads, but it’s installed over the combuster section of a turbine engine, so it gets really, really hot, for long periods. Basically every time I have to remove it, it’s seized up and we have to marinate it in Kroil for a 3-4 hours. Anyone know of a faster/better penetrating oil?
Good lord, Inconel; don’t break that!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs
Project Farm has the only good objective assessment I’ve seen recently (see above). I use P.B. blaster because I’ve gotten used to it (and it works!), and I can’t stand the smell of anything else.
Kroil is probably as good as it gets, from everything I’ve heard. I’ll second DT’s Project Farm recommendation as the most rigorous comparison I’ve seen. They even test ATF/acetone.
Two suggestions: first, is it feasible to take a propane or MAPP torch to the bolt to try and free it up through heating? Worth a shot if there’s nothing meltable/flammable nearby.
Second, next time you do get that thing out, use a different anti-seize. I assume you’re using the regular silver stuff? They make formulations specifically for high-heat applications. The copper kind is the usual go-to, but it’s worth doing a quick Google search and reading through the list to determine what would work best in your specific application.
Good luck!
Kroil is hands down the best.
What sort of anti-seize are you using?
Steel insert or a nutplate?
If it’s a nutplate, I’d just grind the nut element and the end of the bolt. Slap on a new nutplate after.
If not, heat it, then throw kroil or whatever at it.
If it has a helicoil, replace the helicoil as whatever anti-sieze is long gone.
It’s been a while, but if memory serves, you’ll want you female threads to NOT be stainless or inconel to avoid galling. A hard steel nut with silver plating I think is the way to go with an inconel bolt.
By the way… what are you working on that it has a freaking turbine engine? I know you wanted someone to ask, and I’m happy to bite!
Adding onto Halftrack El Camino’s comment anti-seize is very application dependent and the normal silver stuff is best left in at the hazardous waste recycling center. In fact that anti seize can cause things to seize. I know makes no sense. Same with copper and nickel based formulations. While one might be good for titanium or other specific application it might cause steel or other dissimilar metals to join together. I would suggest something like Loctite 34517 White LB 8036 High-Temperature Anti-Seize Lubricant. Downside is it has a -20 degree f lower temp, but the upside is 2000f , and it is non-metallic . I think it has a warning not to touch it with bare skin or use in food applications. Google Loctite LB 8036 Henkel to see the manufacturer’s spec page. It is pricey at about $25 for 8 oz.
It’s come time to fully engage winter mode. Part 1 got done in November with undercoating both cars. Tonight comes snow tires. Thankfully they’re on dedicated wheels and dedicated lugnuts. Unfortunately I’ll need two sets of tires next year. Regular tires for one car and snows for the other. But that’s a problem for future me.
We talkin’ steelies?
Also, Krown or Ziebart or?
One of the biggest selling points for my Alltrack was that it came with a set of Blizzaks mounted on 16″ alloys! I just put ’em on today for the first time.
What I need is for a retired Honda motorcycle mechanic to move in next door and help me get my Nighthawk back together. Starter chain broke and I got as far as pulling the engine from the frame (3 years ago) and that’s pretty much where it’s sat since.
You have to pull the motor for that job?
Yeeeeeeeeep.
The starter and alternator are on a separate shaft which is connected to the crankshaft by a chain. Where does this chain connect?
Middle of the engine, of course.
How do you replace the unobtanium chain when it inevitably breaks?
Remove engine, split the case, and remove the crank.
See, I need someone like you living next door. Logically I know I can probably handle the job, I just need someone to loan me some confidence.
Loan you some confidence?
Hahaha!
I had a junkyard rat Nighthawk with a (very tired) 750 in it. Loved that bike. But I took one look at that job and went ‘noooooooope!’ (Also, parts were completely unavailable. Allegedly somewhat better these days though.)
Yeah, I know I’ll spend more in time and parts (if I can find them) than the bike is worth but there’s really no other bike I want but my 700S. I’ve still got it in the garage and check craigslist from time to time to see if another one comes up for sale so I can use mine for parts.
Please don’t eat my URL here, commenting system. Because you really have to see it to appreciate how bonkers it is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06cjL5ioB0Y
Sadly yes, and even more sadly it’s a common issue on these bikes.
This is so cool – been hoping this would come!
This isn’t very wrench-y, but I did just finish removing a medium-sized dent in my Focus’ door (someone bumped into it in a parking lot while I was, ironically, in an autoparts store…no note left of course).
Hairdryer and suction cups to pull most of it, then a body hammer, various makeshift dollies, and the Haynes Automotive Body Repair guide (“the pounding should be the reverse of the creation”?!) to try to bang out from the inside what was left. I went super slow, but it was worth it…now it’s just two small creases that are very shallow (can’t feel them from behind) or were inaccessible. And all without creating bulges or new reverse dents. Perfect, nope, but I’m happy…for now.
Wow, I’ve never done this! This seems like it requires LOTS of patience.
Bodywork is totally legit wrenching! I SUCK at it, and I’d love to hear more about how to erase the evidence of minor automotive mishaps. Either from commenters, or as full-blown articles if that kind of thing is in the cards!
It’s basically witchcraft, as far as I’m concerned. I feel reasonably confident about tackling most mechanical jobs, I’ll dabble in electrical work, and I’ve even learned to weld a bit (thanks DT for that Jalopnik article about how to get started with a cheap-ass Harbor Freight welder!) but I’ve never had any success with anything cosmetic. My hat’s off to you!
I’ve gotta get my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee in driving shape, then I have to get it to LA. In the next like…week. Which is a HUGE job.
Anyone have advice for catalytic converters re: CARB?
Accept that all the exhaust bolts will be seized. If you’re replacing a cat, Walker has CARB cats that bolt up, but they are $$$$. Rockauto shows $600+. Your best bet is probably having a weld-in CARB cat done at a muffler shop. A buddy of mine used a $200 Magnaflow 334009 with good success.
Okay, $200 I can do. I was concerned about that…
In the past, I have been surprised by how reasonable it was to have people weld stuff on my cars. I had an exhaust repaired once, and another time got a hole fixed in an XJ’s frame rail. I think it was about $70 both times. Basically an hour of labor with no significant material cost, I guess.
I’d been wondering about this, thank you!
I have real hood pins (genuine Ford part!) for my Mustang, and apparently, the way to make them stick up high enough to clear the hood is to weld the bottom nuts onto the radiator support. You then thread the pins on with the top nut in place, which you then spin down to lock against the bottom nut and viola.
If I were in your situation, I might take that as a prime opportunity to invest in a rivnut set. It’d be half the price of an hour of welding as long as you were fine with getting a cheap-ass no-name tool (totally fine if you only intend to use it once in a blue moon) and when you were done you’d still have a rivnut set!
For pre-OBD-II, the EO catalysts are no big deal. Newer cats work better and are more efficient, the objective is less emissions, so everybody goes home happy on those.
Problem is it’s a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
It’s not gonna pass. God how I wish I didn’t know that. You’ll get a whole ton of idiots saying “oh it’s the EGR” (the 4.0 does not have an EGR of course) or “oh just spray this snake oil” (yeah, just no.) It’s gonna fail. They were struggling on NOX in Ohio 20 years ago. With a brand freaking new catalyst it is going to fail.
I am telling you this, so that you do not fail emissions. Two very simple fixes to this. One, weld-in cat goes precisely in factory location plus or minus not more than one inch. Two, replace the O2s with Denso. Not the Bosch; for ’94 specifically use the Denso OE (NP2344003 pre-cat, NP2344078 post-cat as I recall. But double check. There’s multiple connectors.) Yes, do both O2 sensors.
The Jeep will now fail. It will fail bad. It will fail super bad. Now we’re actually going to fix that part.
Disconnect the battery and put a load on the 12V system with a plug-in charger or something for about a minute. Then reconnect it.
Then you are going to drive it at least 25MPH average moving speed for at least 2 miles and a total of at least 10 minutes running time (or at least operating temp,) 3 times. It MUST hit operating temperature. Idle it, drive it, idle it, turn it off. That’s one time. (So yes, a trip to the store counts as 2.) That is the computer’s hard-coded drive cycle. You need 3 after re-learn to switch to closed loop and re-learn fuel trim.
Now do at least 3 more drive cycles. That’ll get fuel trim happy.
Congratulations, you will now sail through emissions.
Why am I so absolutely maddeningly specific about the Denso? Because I did a LOT of these bastards. A LOT. I literally have a stack of (possibly?) good Bosch and Denso O2 sensors from Grand Cherokees in my toolbox because of some very critical rules we learned from painful experience. One, you cannot under any circumstances mix Bosch and Denso. Ever. No matter what year it is. Two, 1994 Grand Cherokees only behave right with the Denso units. The Bosch units always put them right on the edge of failing. Three, post-1998 or ’99 4.0’s can only ever be fed the Bosch units, for the same reason. Four, once they’re locked into bad behavior due to a ruined cat or bad O2 sensor then they can only be forced back out with re-learn and drive cycles. Oh, and most important rule of all? Never ever ever replace a single O2 sensor on a 4.0. It will be back next week for the other even if the replacement was due to wire damage.
Thanks for the advice, rootwyrm!
That said, there is no post-CAT O2 sensor on these!
There’s…
(doublechecks notes)
… okay then why the fuck do I have two Denso PNs listed? Because, quoting myself:
“94 DENSO ONLY 4003/4078
95 BOSCH 13138/15704 EXC TWIST”
So I looked and… oh gods. These are the ones with the connector and placement fuckery. There’s a round connector and a square connector, and there’s a short harness and a long harness.
So ONE of those Densos is the right LENGTH and the other isn’t. (The Bosch vs. Denso thing is about the zirconia chemistry, BTW. They have different stoichiometric response curves.)
Have I mentioned the emissions systems on these things are misery? Because they are. So yeah. Order both Densos and one of them will be the right length. Which? I have no idea.
I’d also see if you can find someone who can give you an exhaust gas analysis before the new cat goes in. NOX will be bonkers, but you want a UHC/HC number. If HC is over 3, smoke the vacuum and fix the leaks before replacing the cat. (It’ll likely kick crap out, and you don’t want to ruin the new cat.)
Very good point! Maybe I run it with straight pipes for a bit.